Chapelle troglodytique Sainte-Radegonde

Chinon

On a hillside east of the Château de Chinon, the Chapelle Sainte-Radegonde is cut into the yellow tuffeau: one nave entirely underground, the older of the two, and a second nave now open to the sky. Tradition places here, around 530, the hermitage of Jean le Reclus, who had come from the British Isles, whom Saint Radegonde, queen of the Franks turned nun at Poitiers, is said to have come to consult — a visit recorded by Gregory of Tours. The site preserves sarcophagi cut into the rock, the reconstructed tomb of the hermit, 19th-century troglodyte dwellings and a well that scholars consider the original core of the site. In 1964 an exceptional wall painting was uncovered on the rock face, known as 'the royal hunt': five riders, including two crowned figures in ermine cloaks and a falconer, long identified with the Plantagenets, Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine. Radiocarbon dating carried out in 2019 pushed the execution back to the middle or end of the 13th century, reviving the debate over the identity of the figures and the meaning of this cavalcade painted in a cave. Standing outside the walls of the medieval town, the chapel occupied a threshold position, between the world of the living and a rock-cut cemetery. The town of Chinon acquired the site in 1957 and has housed a museum of popular arts and traditions there since 1966, with its 18th-century walnut-oil presses.

Université de Tours — notice scientifique sur la chapelle Sainte-Radegonde ↗

Getting there : From the centre of Chinon, climb Rue du Coteau Sainte-Radegonde, above the Saint-Mexme district: 15 to 20 minutes' uphill walk, a pleasant stroll. Free entry; open weekends and public holidays 3pm-6pm in spring and September, daily in July-August (10am-1pm and 3pm-6pm) — times to be checked with the town's heritage department (02 47 93 53 26). Allow about thirty minutes for the visit. The underground parts are cool and damp, so bring something warm.

Opening times and access details are given as a guide only: check before you set out.

Ambient sound