Bois de Païolive

Berrias-et-Casteljau

In the south of the Ardèche, between Les Vans, Banne and Berrias-et-Casteljau, the bois de Païolive spreads over some fifteen square kilometres a chaos of limestone. The soil is so thin that the oak forest grows between rocks, fissures and lapiaz, above the Chassezac gorges. Rainwater sinks immediately into the subsoil, hollowed with small caves and resurgences. The paths wind between the blocks, so that tourist notices speak of a veritable natural labyrinth: one part of the site is indeed called ‘le Labyrinthe’, another ‘le Bestiaire’. One recognises rocks shaped like an elephant, a bear, a lion, a tortoise or a monkey. The place is nicknamed ‘bois des fados’, that is, ‘wood of the fairies’, and the guides lend it a magical atmosphere, without reporting any specific tale. In the wood, the hermitage of Saint-Eugène, clinging to a cliff, predates the 10th century. In Richelieu's time, reports one notice, the wood is said to have sheltered Protestants and brigands.

Cévennes d'Ardèche — Bois de Païolive, Berrias-et-Casteljau ↗

Getting there: By the D252, between Berrias-et-Casteljau and the D901 (parking des Clairières, three car parks in all). Free visit at no charge on waymarked paths: sentier de la Vierge (about 1.5 km), the Corniche (about 4 km), hermitage of Saint-Eugène (about 5 km). The wood is protected private property (Natura 2000): stay on the paths, no fires, wear good shoes. Not accessible to people with reduced mobility. Any seasonal restrictions (fire risk) have not been verified.

Opening times and access details are given as a guide only: check before you set out.

Ambient sound