Chapelle des Templiers de Cressac

Cressac-Saint-Genis (Coteaux-du-Blanzacais)

Standing alone at the hamlet of Le Dognon, the Templar chapel of Cressac was built between 1150 and 1160 for a commandery of the Order of the Temple. Its single nave, plain on the outside, hides a treasure: wall paintings of the late 12th century (around 1170–1180), executed in local red clay bound with egg white, which depict — an exceedingly rare case in France — the epic of the Crusades almost contemporary with their making. The north wall unfolds a battle pitting the Frankish knights, crosses on their garments or shields, against Saracen troops recognisable by their round shields: it is identified as the victory won in 1163 in the Bekaa plain by Hugh le Brun of Lusignan and Geoffrey Martel over the forces of Nur ad-Din, emir of Aleppo. The west wall shows Saint George slaying the dragon and a crowned horseman in triumph, the east wall Saint Michael weighing souls beside a bishop giving his blessing. On an outer wall, a "hand of penance" is said to have received the hands of the faithful after confession. Listed as a monument historique by decree of 9 May 1914, the chapel has belonged since the early 20th century to the Protestant Church of Barbezieux, which still holds services there; its fragile frescoes have been undergoing a restoration begun in 2013.

Getting there : Hamlet of Le Dognon (Le Temple), south of Blanzac, about 20 km south of Angoulême; guided tours by the Blanzacais heritage discovery committee; Protestant worship still held

Opening times and access details are given as a guide only: check before you set out.

Ambient sound