Sanctuaire Notre-Dame d'Ay

Saint-Romain-d'Ay

At the end of an avenue of trees, a rocky promontory stands out above the gorges of the Ay: it is there, on the remains of a medieval castle, that one of the most venerated Black Madonnas of the Vivarais keeps watch. Local tradition, as related by the commune, traces the sanctity of the place back well before Christianity: a pagan sanctuary dedicated to the goddess Isis is said to have stood on this spur — an unverifiable tale, but one that says how much the site has always seemed "inhabited". In the Middle Ages, the castle chapel of the château of Ay became the goal of a Marian pilgrimage, and the sanctuary has never since ceased to draw the crowds: still today, the great occasions are the May pilgrimages, the Assumption on 15 August and the feast of the Nativity of Mary on 8 September. The small statue of the Black Madonna, listed as a monument historique in 1968, is enthroned above the altar, surrounded by ex-votos. Around the chapel, visitors can see the rooms of the former keep, a museum of religious art and a rose garden suspended above the river; the path that circles the spur offers breathtaking drops down into the gorges. It is a rare place where, within a few square metres, seigneurial fortress, popular piety and ancient legend are layered one upon another — one of the two great pilgrimage sanctuaries of northern Ardèche, along with nearby Lalouvesc.

Getting there : 50 allée de la Chapelle, 07290 Saint-Romain-d'Ay, in the "Ardèche verte" between Annonay and Lamastre. Chapel open to visitors, reception and shop on Sundays and pilgrimage days (April–September season). Coordinates given for the centre of the commune, as an approach point: the sanctuary is signposted from the village.

Opening times and access details are given as a guide only: check before you set out.

Ambient sound