Abbaye de Montbenoît

Montbenoît

In the narrow valley carved by the Doubs between Pontarlier and Morteau, the abbey of Montbenoît keeps the memory of a land apart. Tradition holds that a hermit named Benoît gave his name to the hill before the lords of Joux founded, in the 12th century, this abbey of Augustinian canons — the only medieval religious ensemble of such importance preserved in the Doubs. The monks were given sole charge of the valley and brought in settlers to clear the land: these colonists, the "Saugets", whose name appears in a papal bull as early as 1199, forged an identity so singular that it has endured down the centuries. The sober 12th-century nave opens onto a Flamboyant 16th-century choir of Italian Renaissance inspiration, where one lingers before twenty-six carved wooden stalls, all different and full of medieval mischief. The cloister, of the 12th and 15th centuries, the vaulted kitchen with its great fireplace and the passages to the dungeons complete the visit. History has a delightful epilogue here: in 1947, the hotelier Georges Pourchet jokingly asked the prefect Louis Ottaviani whether he had a pass to enter "Sauget country"; amused, the prefect proclaimed him president of the "Republic of Saugeais". This folkloric republic still exists, with its president, its customs officers for a day and its anthem — and the abbey as its capital. A place where medieval fervour and Franche-Comté humour go hand in hand.

Getting there : On the D437 between Pontarlier and Morteau, in the heart of the village of Montbenoît (4 rue du Val Saugeais). Parking in the village; the abbey is a few steps away.

Opening times and access details are given as a guide only: check before you set out.

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