Église Saint-Pierre d'Aulnay-de-Saintonge

Aulnay

Aulnay is a unique case: an almost intact Romanesque church, alone in the middle of its old cemetery with its cypresses, on the borders of Poitou and Saintonge, on the Via Turonensis — the great road from Tours to Compostela. Built around 1120–1140 on the initiative of the canons of Poitiers, between Poitiers and Saintes, it welcomed pilgrims at their halt; it was listed as a historic monument as early as 1840, in the very first French list, and inscribed in 1998 on UNESCO's World Heritage list under the Routes of Santiago de Compostela. But its true glory is carved. Rarely has the Romanesque put on such a festival: on the west portal, the labours of the months and the signs of the zodiac; on the south portal, archivolts teeming with a fantastic bestiary in which one enjoys picking out the musician donkey playing the lyre; inside, a famous capital bears elephants — beasts the sculptor had never seen — accompanied by the Latin inscription "Hi sunt elephantes", "these are elephants", like a schoolbook caption carved for eternity. Vices and virtues, Elders of the Apocalypse, Samson and Delilah complete this sermon in stone which pilgrims read like a book. The east end, the carved corbels and the hosannière cross (cemetery cross) round off the visit. Recently restored, open every day and free, Saint-Pierre d'Aulnay is, in the literal sense, a masterpiece by the wayside.

Getting there : Away from the town of Aulnay, avenue de l'Église; free entry every day from 8am to 8pm, car park on site, guided tours in season. Coordinates given for the church.

Opening times and access details are given as a guide only: check before you set out.

Ambient sound