Abbatiale de Saint-Leu-d'Esserent, le prieuré de la rançon

Saint-Leu-d'Esserent

This almost-cathedral of a church, standing on its spur above the Oise, was born of a debt of honour. In 1081, Hugh, Count of Dammartin, captured during a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, owed his freedom to the Benedictine monks who had paid his ransom: to settle the debt, he granted them by charter the church and lands of Saint-Leu, under the dedication of Saint Leu — Lupus, Bishop of Sens. The priory, attached directly to Cluny, prospered to the point of numbering 34 monks at the end of the 13th century. Between 1140 and 1220 rose the present church, a little-known masterpiece of early Gothic: its porch-narthex of the 1140s, its east end with radiating chapels inspired by Saint-Denis and Senlis, its tall 13th-century nave sum up on their own the whole birth of Gothic — built, what is more, of the famous Saint-Leu stone, quarried nearby, which served for the cathedrals and for Versailles. The priory church, restored in the 20th century, was given in 1960 stained glass by master glaziers including Max Ingrand. From the ransom of a pilgrim count to the V1s, a thousand years of history are held in this vessel of golden stone that still dominates the valley.

Getting there : Centre of Saint-Leu-d'Esserent, above the Oise, 5 km from Chantilly. Saint-Leu-d'Esserent railway station (Creil–Beauvais line) or by road from Chantilly/Creil. Church generally open during the day; tours via the Creil Sud Oise tourist office.

Opening times and access details are given as a guide only: check before you set out.

Ambient sound